It's the first day of classes here at UCT and I am currently wasting time between my first class (Southern Africa in the Twentieth Century) and my next class (Third World Politics) in the Beattie Humanities Computer Lab in Upper Campus. For some reason, US based websites (Gmail, Yahoo, etc.) are loading slowly if at all, so instead of enriching my learning experience, I'm just gonna ramble about weird things I've found here so far. I hope you enjoy it.
First off, and I may have already told some of you this, so if I'm reapeating myself bear with me, but I have found the greatest substance ever created in the history of mankind. I say that without qualification. It's called Sweet Chilli Sauce, and I am anxious to know whether it can be found in the States. It's like sweet ketchup with chilli peppers in it. It's the perfect accompaniment to an afternoon boerewors or other braai meats, or, as we found out yesterday in the Cecil Road house, with an omelette in the morning, along with pretty much anything else you can imagine. I'm keen to try it on cereal, it's that good. So anyway, I need some recon from back home. If you can find it, let me know. Also, you should buy some and put it on everything you eat. You'll thank me later.
Second, for all the moaning and groaning we do about class registration at Tufts (and we have done plenty over the 26 - or so - years I've been in college) it is NOTHING compared to the unimaginable hellscape of UCT registration. I'm pretty sure they just don't care about the inefficiency either, which also really grinds my gears. Let me see if I can encapsulate the process for you in 57 easy to remember steps. First you have to get pre-approved for any course you want to take. This process started for me with interstudy back in April when I chose a list of 8 courses I was interested in taking. Then, those pre-approvals have to be approved, but not by your academic adivsor as at Tufts, no, here you have to get INDIVIDUAL APPROVAL FROM EVERY PROFESSOR in order to take any class, each signing an individual pink pre-approval form. Oh yeah, and they don't like emails and they refuse to answer their phone. So, you have to go find them in their offices, except they're never there. So inevitably you end up going and begging a secretary for help, and they don't really like study abroad students (at least in the Poli Sci department, grrr...) so you end up having to kiss a whole lot of ass jsut to get these approvals.
So now you're pre-approved. What does that mean? Pretty much nothing except that you get to stand on not one, not two but FIVE massive queues in order to register. Seriously, five, I counted. This process takes place on one morning, for every student and includes filling out MORE forms most of which don't even get processed before you get to stand on ANOTHER queue in order to have someone enter your classes into a computer in order to end the registration process.
Then you have to go get a student ID, but - trust me - that's another rant for another time.
Despite all this inefficiency, I managed to speak to one bureaucrat who explained, and I quote, 'Well, at least it's better than the old system.'
Unless the 'old system' involved water torture and/or human sacrifice, I fail to see how it could possibly be better. They have lots of excuses, but my legs hurt from standing in so many queues. Of course, I'm horrifically out of shape (as I learned at Cape Point) but still...
Anyway, that's all for me, I'm off to Third World Politics. And seriously, if anybody finds Sweet Chilli Sauce in the States, I want to know immediately.
Cheers!
31 July 2006
28 July 2006
Until the End of the World
As the African sun reached its winter apex this afternoon, I finished a vertical climb of 200 meters over the space of about a kilometer, and stood there marveling at the sight.
I looked out over a vast ocean as I caught my breath from the climb and realized that I had reached - literally - the end of the world.
I turned around, the Atlantic Ocean on my left, the Indian Ocean on my right, Cape Point Light in front of me and read the markers telling distances to suddenly farflung and nearby locales all over the world - 12000+km to New York, only about 6500km to the South Pole. Cape Point Light at the Cape of Good Hope is one of the most striking and raggedly beautiful places I have ever been. Reminiscent of the West of Ireland, the at once barren and lush landscape is almost exactly as one would expect it to be, a place where the mountains crash into the rolling seas and the immensity of the journey stands before you. I have come quite a long way from Cape Ann to the Cape of Good Hope, and my time here is just beginning. What new adventures await me? All I know tonight as I watch that same African sun set again over Table Mountain out my window (No, seriously, you're so jealous...) it's time to build back. I've gone to the edge and now I can concentrate on filling in the blanks on the road back.
---
Update on pictures, I'm still looking for a way to get some shots out to the wider internet beyond facebook, but I need an economical way to do it as I'm paying for internet by the megabyte here. I tried flickr yesterday, but that didn't really work and the blogger upload capacity is pretty small, so if you have any ideas, leave a comment and I'll try it out.
Totsiens.
I looked out over a vast ocean as I caught my breath from the climb and realized that I had reached - literally - the end of the world.
I turned around, the Atlantic Ocean on my left, the Indian Ocean on my right, Cape Point Light in front of me and read the markers telling distances to suddenly farflung and nearby locales all over the world - 12000+km to New York, only about 6500km to the South Pole. Cape Point Light at the Cape of Good Hope is one of the most striking and raggedly beautiful places I have ever been. Reminiscent of the West of Ireland, the at once barren and lush landscape is almost exactly as one would expect it to be, a place where the mountains crash into the rolling seas and the immensity of the journey stands before you. I have come quite a long way from Cape Ann to the Cape of Good Hope, and my time here is just beginning. What new adventures await me? All I know tonight as I watch that same African sun set again over Table Mountain out my window (No, seriously, you're so jealous...) it's time to build back. I've gone to the edge and now I can concentrate on filling in the blanks on the road back.
---
Update on pictures, I'm still looking for a way to get some shots out to the wider internet beyond facebook, but I need an economical way to do it as I'm paying for internet by the megabyte here. I tried flickr yesterday, but that didn't really work and the blogger upload capacity is pretty small, so if you have any ideas, leave a comment and I'll try it out.
Totsiens.
25 July 2006
Knocked for Six!
Yup. I played cricket this afternoon.
My new South African friend Mike took me and my housemate Kevin to Pinelands Cricket Club where he is a batsman on the 4th Team and led us in a net session. I held my own against his spin bowling getting in a couple good knocks, though my technique definitely needs some work. Kevin too had a good run before getting stumped by one of Mike's slower balls.
Then Mike stood in against us and hit some outstanding shots to long on. Clearly my line and length need work, but I did manage to get him to edge on back to the "wicket-keeper" and I would have had his wicket with a fast yorker.
Absolutely one of the best experiences since I've been here. And we're braaiing tonight. Yum, boerewors.
But first, I'll nap. Totsiens!
My new South African friend Mike took me and my housemate Kevin to Pinelands Cricket Club where he is a batsman on the 4th Team and led us in a net session. I held my own against his spin bowling getting in a couple good knocks, though my technique definitely needs some work. Kevin too had a good run before getting stumped by one of Mike's slower balls.
Then Mike stood in against us and hit some outstanding shots to long on. Clearly my line and length need work, but I did manage to get him to edge on back to the "wicket-keeper" and I would have had his wicket with a fast yorker.
Absolutely one of the best experiences since I've been here. And we're braaiing tonight. Yum, boerewors.
But first, I'll nap. Totsiens!
23 July 2006
Let Me Tell You About My Boat
I've just returned from my trip to Robben Island, which was every bit as emotional and mesmerizing as Long Walk to Freedom made it seem tht it would be. Being able to freely walk the grounds of the maximum security prison - which was surprisingly only a very small part of the Island - brought the struggles and successes of the old and new South Africa home for me. Walking through B-Seksie and seeing Cell #5 in the same condition as when Prisoner #466/64, as Mr. Mandela was known, left it, seeing a spontaneous rock pile built at a reunion in 1995 marking the spot, some 50 meters from the current wall, where the limestone quarry was begun by Mandela and other political enemies of the apartheid regime, watching the South African flag wave in the winter wind above the razor wire of the prison walls, all while being led through the grounds by a former prisoner, Glen, a former student agitator from Soweto, was a totally moving experience. If you ever find yourself here, the very first thing you must do is go to Robben Island. Every human being should. Freedom, a concept I often mock because of the way it is being eroded in the United States - okay, I know, that's another rant for another blog and another time - becomes a very real concept when you see the world from behind those walls. It is a truly humbling and moving experience that I cannot - obviously - recommend highly enough.
That said, if you do go, stay away from the good ship Dias. We students had the misfortune of making the 11 km journey over open ocean in this unseaworthy excuse for a former fishing trawler. As the other ferries (high speed catamarans) whizzed by us, shuttling pilgrims from shore to shore, we were bobbing along in 4-foot seas trying not to lose our lunch. It was like being on a really twisty roller coaster for an hour (each way) with no opportunity to get off.
In any respect, do go to Robben Island, but do yourself a favor and avoid the Dias.
That said, if you do go, stay away from the good ship Dias. We students had the misfortune of making the 11 km journey over open ocean in this unseaworthy excuse for a former fishing trawler. As the other ferries (high speed catamarans) whizzed by us, shuttling pilgrims from shore to shore, we were bobbing along in 4-foot seas trying not to lose our lunch. It was like being on a really twisty roller coaster for an hour (each way) with no opportunity to get off.
In any respect, do go to Robben Island, but do yourself a favor and avoid the Dias.
Pictures
A select few pictures I have taken are up on my Facebook profile. Take a look if you're my friend. If you're not my friend, what the hell are you doing reading this anyway?
Totsiens.
Totsiens.
22 July 2006
Daniel Carter is a One Man Wrecking Crew
The alarm sounded at 8:30 this morning and as the sun came up over Table Mountain I ventured out into Rondebosch to watch South Africa's beloved Springboks take on the All Blacks of New Zealand in Tri-Nations Rugby. It was a beautiful morning in the Southern Suburbs as I made the 15 minute walk down Main Road to the Coffee Bean, owned by one of my new Capetonian friends, Braam, to watch the action. I arrived just as a group of seven singers was singing Nkosi Sikelei iAfrika, the SA national anthem. Following that rather stirring display of my new nation's patriotism came the New Zealanders turn, but its the Haka that follows which makes for interesting television.
If you have never seen the Haka, I'm sure there's a video of it on YouTube or Google Video. The Haka is the oldest tradition of All black rugby and goes back to their Maori forebears. It is one of the most terrifying and awe-inspiring video you will ever see. The 15 man All Black side lines up facing their opponent - who stand arm in arm watching the display in horror - and 14 of them demeure as their captain chants the beginning in Maori softly, building to a crescendo until the leader shouts...
KA MATE!!! ("We're going to die" in Maori)
The other 14 and the thousands at WestPac Stadium in Wellington return with...
KA ORA!!! ("We're going to live")
This continues as the All Blacks beat their chests and move slowly closer to their opponents as the captain leads them, bidding them to "Step Up, Where The Sun Shines" and as they reach the apex, the chest beating stops, they look the Springboks dead in the eye, and with an insane grin on all their faces, slide their thumbs across their throats, meaning they will stop at nothing to gain victory.
I was watching this on television and I was intimidated. I can't even imagine how the Boks felt on that rugby pitch.
The Haka bore fruit for the New Zealanders today as they easily defeated the Boks, 35-17. However, the star of the show was flyhalf Daniel Carter who singlehandedly scored 25 of the All Blacks 35 points by kicking 7 penalties and 2 try conversions and being the main playmaker on both half-ending tries. Where his counterpart for the Boks, Percy Montgomery, looked lost as a team leader, Carter easily takes the reigns, slings the team on his back and carries them off to victory in one of the most important games on their calendar. I got the same sense looking at him as I do back home watching Adam Vinatieri kick. Perhaps "Danny, and leave" will become a popular catchphrase as the All Blacks mount their '07 World Cup campaign.
Back at the Coffee Bean in Main Road, Rondebosch, the many Springbok supporters took comfort in the fact that their side bounced back from their last match against Australia - in which they got thrashed 49-0 - by playing a spirited match against the best team in the world far away from home. The return matches begin over the next weeks and the Boks will be home in anticipation of mounting the pressure on the All Blacks and Wallabies. All my fellow early risers and rugby watchers seemed relatively happy about the promise of spring for the Springboks.
...
The weather finally broke - at least momentarily - from the winter rains in Cape Town as I walked home. Passing by UCT's lower campus, I looked up at Devil's Peak and the Rhodes Memorial, which sits about halfway up the 1000-meter tall rock cliff (Pictures are coming, I Promise!). The sun glinted down for the first time in days and the formerly crisp air was once again delightfully mild. I listened as the minibus drivers hooted and honked, attempting to get their next fare for a ride to Obs or the City Bowl or Newlands. The smells of an early afternoon braai wafted down from the hill and up from Rosebank center. And as I felt the ground under my feet as I made the turn onto Wolmunster Road and Cecil Road, this African morning sensuously delighted each of my senses in a way that no other place ever could.
And I stopped, briefly, and thought how morning in Africa is a moment to behold. More of these moments will come over the coming months, but I will always remember my morning walk from Rondebosch as the moment the wonders of this place first hit me.
More to come soon. Keep the comments up, it's good to hear from all of you over here. Totsiens!
If you have never seen the Haka, I'm sure there's a video of it on YouTube or Google Video. The Haka is the oldest tradition of All black rugby and goes back to their Maori forebears. It is one of the most terrifying and awe-inspiring video you will ever see. The 15 man All Black side lines up facing their opponent - who stand arm in arm watching the display in horror - and 14 of them demeure as their captain chants the beginning in Maori softly, building to a crescendo until the leader shouts...
KA MATE!!! ("We're going to die" in Maori)
The other 14 and the thousands at WestPac Stadium in Wellington return with...
KA ORA!!! ("We're going to live")
This continues as the All Blacks beat their chests and move slowly closer to their opponents as the captain leads them, bidding them to "Step Up, Where The Sun Shines" and as they reach the apex, the chest beating stops, they look the Springboks dead in the eye, and with an insane grin on all their faces, slide their thumbs across their throats, meaning they will stop at nothing to gain victory.
I was watching this on television and I was intimidated. I can't even imagine how the Boks felt on that rugby pitch.
The Haka bore fruit for the New Zealanders today as they easily defeated the Boks, 35-17. However, the star of the show was flyhalf Daniel Carter who singlehandedly scored 25 of the All Blacks 35 points by kicking 7 penalties and 2 try conversions and being the main playmaker on both half-ending tries. Where his counterpart for the Boks, Percy Montgomery, looked lost as a team leader, Carter easily takes the reigns, slings the team on his back and carries them off to victory in one of the most important games on their calendar. I got the same sense looking at him as I do back home watching Adam Vinatieri kick. Perhaps "Danny, and leave" will become a popular catchphrase as the All Blacks mount their '07 World Cup campaign.
Back at the Coffee Bean in Main Road, Rondebosch, the many Springbok supporters took comfort in the fact that their side bounced back from their last match against Australia - in which they got thrashed 49-0 - by playing a spirited match against the best team in the world far away from home. The return matches begin over the next weeks and the Boks will be home in anticipation of mounting the pressure on the All Blacks and Wallabies. All my fellow early risers and rugby watchers seemed relatively happy about the promise of spring for the Springboks.
...
The weather finally broke - at least momentarily - from the winter rains in Cape Town as I walked home. Passing by UCT's lower campus, I looked up at Devil's Peak and the Rhodes Memorial, which sits about halfway up the 1000-meter tall rock cliff (Pictures are coming, I Promise!). The sun glinted down for the first time in days and the formerly crisp air was once again delightfully mild. I listened as the minibus drivers hooted and honked, attempting to get their next fare for a ride to Obs or the City Bowl or Newlands. The smells of an early afternoon braai wafted down from the hill and up from Rosebank center. And as I felt the ground under my feet as I made the turn onto Wolmunster Road and Cecil Road, this African morning sensuously delighted each of my senses in a way that no other place ever could.
And I stopped, briefly, and thought how morning in Africa is a moment to behold. More of these moments will come over the coming months, but I will always remember my morning walk from Rondebosch as the moment the wonders of this place first hit me.
More to come soon. Keep the comments up, it's good to hear from all of you over here. Totsiens!
20 July 2006
Live, From Cape Town, It's...(Wait, what day is it?)
Sawubona! (Greetings)
I have arrived in Rosebank after journeying about 9000 miles over the course of two days from Boston. The interstudy folks and I all rolled in here about 6pm South Africa time yesterday, at least I think it was yesterday. I have to say we were all very happy just to be somewhere that wasn't a flying cigar tube, but once we got to the corner of Cecil and Wolmunster Roads in Rosebank our accomodations were quite pleasant. I'll upload pictures soon, but it's much better than anything you would find in and around Tufts, that's for sure. We even have a washing machine!
I spent last night getting to know many of my housemates as well as some interstudy neighbors as my house, 11 Cecil Road, is behind the same wall as 16 Wolmunster, another student residence. So far, it seems like a good group of kids, which I'm basically gauging by the fact that we spent the last 48 or so hours in VERY close quarters with each other and no one has yet contemplated murder.
In another exciting development, internet connectivity is less spotty than I thought it would be, so I may be online more than I thought and more able to blog. I know you're excited. Though here, you pay by the megabyte downloaded, which is an odd and scary concept, but I should be able at least blog and check my email without too much hassle.
Anyway, as I look out my window, the sun is on its way up on this chilly Thursday morning in Cape Town (Don't worry, I'm not becoming a morning person or anything stupid like that, the sun just doesn't peek over the mountain until about 7:30am!). With that, I'm off to an exciting day of orientation and buying things. I hope to get some pictures up of my surroundings soon, because trust me, you wouldn't believe it if I told you...
Totsiens.
I have arrived in Rosebank after journeying about 9000 miles over the course of two days from Boston. The interstudy folks and I all rolled in here about 6pm South Africa time yesterday, at least I think it was yesterday. I have to say we were all very happy just to be somewhere that wasn't a flying cigar tube, but once we got to the corner of Cecil and Wolmunster Roads in Rosebank our accomodations were quite pleasant. I'll upload pictures soon, but it's much better than anything you would find in and around Tufts, that's for sure. We even have a washing machine!
I spent last night getting to know many of my housemates as well as some interstudy neighbors as my house, 11 Cecil Road, is behind the same wall as 16 Wolmunster, another student residence. So far, it seems like a good group of kids, which I'm basically gauging by the fact that we spent the last 48 or so hours in VERY close quarters with each other and no one has yet contemplated murder.
In another exciting development, internet connectivity is less spotty than I thought it would be, so I may be online more than I thought and more able to blog. I know you're excited. Though here, you pay by the megabyte downloaded, which is an odd and scary concept, but I should be able at least blog and check my email without too much hassle.
Anyway, as I look out my window, the sun is on its way up on this chilly Thursday morning in Cape Town (Don't worry, I'm not becoming a morning person or anything stupid like that, the sun just doesn't peek over the mountain until about 7:30am!). With that, I'm off to an exciting day of orientation and buying things. I hope to get some pictures up of my surroundings soon, because trust me, you wouldn't believe it if I told you...
Totsiens.
10 July 2006
The Ultimate Placeholder
Hello intrepid internet reader.
I see you have found my new blog, The Pink Polo Goes to Africa. Congratulations, you're early and I wasn't expecting you yet. I'll be updating this space over the coming weeks and months as I, your humble correspondent, document my 4+-month voyage from the US to South Africa with many stories and pictures of fun things along the way.
Stay tuned, the journey begins on 17 July 2006.
I see you have found my new blog, The Pink Polo Goes to Africa. Congratulations, you're early and I wasn't expecting you yet. I'll be updating this space over the coming weeks and months as I, your humble correspondent, document my 4+-month voyage from the US to South Africa with many stories and pictures of fun things along the way.
Stay tuned, the journey begins on 17 July 2006.
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